A Ramble on the Mountains above Fontes Village

The tiny village of Fontes inland from Campanario is the starting point for this walk which is essentially a ramble on the mountain side above Fontes. The village has a small bar and the track up the
mountain is on the side of the bar. We did a circular route ending on the road a short distance from Fontes.

Although we did our walk in January and Fontes is quite far up (approximately 950 metres above sea level) we had a lovely sunny day but you should be prepared for all weather, and ideally pick a day when the weather is good. Mid summer would probably not be suitable as there is no shade. We followed a track up the mountains passing a small dwelling on our left. Once we reached the top we had wonderful views of Ribeira Brava and Encumeada and further along we could sight Pico Areiro with its distinctive radar ball.

The locals take up their cattle to graze on the mountain slopes, and some are adorned with bells lending a Swiss atmosphere to the walk.

Tea at the Museum of Memories, Funchal

The road climbing up from the church, Igreja de São Pedro is called “Calçada de Santa Clara”, and has some of the best museums of Funchal – Museu de Francisco Franco, Quinta das Cruzes, the ancient convent of Santa Clara and the Museu das Memorias. The Museu das Memorias also has one of my favourite tea rooms which may be visited independently of the museum. The little tea room offers a haven from the busyness of Funchal. Tables and chairs are set out in the garden around a little pond with an adorable cherub statue and goldfish, and one can enjoy afternoon tea here in the middle of the city and still feel “far from the madding crowd”. There is also indoor seating should the weather not be favourable.

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A walk along the Machico valley: Levada do Caniçal

The little waterhouse at the start of the wlak
The little water house at the start of the walk

A pleasant walk along the Levada do Caniçal. We did an out and back walk joining the levada on the western side of the old Caniçal tunnel (from Machico take the ER214) towards Pico do Facho and Caniçal. A little water house on the levada is the start of the walk.

From the levada path one looks down on the town of Machico as it extends along the levada. The levada path is quite uneven so you will have to take care. After about an hour into the walk the view at the bottom of the valley gives way to agricultural development and small palheiros.
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Beaches and Lido – Western part of the island

On the west side of the island the beaches in Ribeira Brava and Calheta were awarded the blue flag for 2019.

Calheta Beach

Calheta Beach
Calheta Beach

Located in Calheta, two yellow sand beaches, on either side of an enclosed swimming area protected by breakwater for secure swimming. It is one of the only two beaches in Madeira which have a sandy beach (Machico being the other). The beach is very popular with families during the summer months, but is well served with three parking garages, and on street parking as well.
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Walking in Madeira: Queimadas to Caldeirão Verde

The start of this walk is located in the Queimadas Park, an area of beautiful, natural forest situated about five kilometres from Santana on the north of the island. In the park you will find many species of ferns and trees, especially   those of the laurisilva forest for which Madeira is famous.  Recently a new parking area has been opened as well as a tearoom. The beautiful Santana type house (A framed, with a thatched roof) which is situated at the start of the walk is also remarkable.

Start of the walk
Start of the walk

The walk is approximately 13 kms there and back. We enjoyed the continuous bird song, and occasional sightings of the Madeira Chaffinch, as well as a sighting right at the end of the walk of the Madeiran trocaz pidgeon. The walk offers wonderful mountain and valley views, and endemic species of trees and ferns. There are several tunnels on the way to the falls, so carry a torch, as well as a light mac.

Tea at the Quinta Jardins do Lago

  • Fountain - Jardins do Lago
    Fountain - Jardins do Lago

Quinta Jardims do Lago, is a small, luxury hotel set in magnificent gardens. The old manor house was built in the eighteenth century and was the home of several prominent French and English families. During the Napoleonic wars General Beresford, Commander of the British forces on the island, chose it as his residence.
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Getting round the island on the local buses: the West (Ribeira Brava, Ponto do Sol, Calheta), and North West (Porto Moniz) and North (São Vicente and Santana)

The Rodoeste bus company (Rodoeste bus company operates between Funchal and the western part of the island including Ribeira Brava, Ponto do Sol, Calheta) as well as the North west (Porto Moniz) and North (São Vicente and Santana).

Porto Moniz by bus from Funchal

  • Bus to Porto Moniz
    Bus to Porto Moniz

It is possible to to take a day trip to Porto Moniz from Funchal, by using the Rodoeste bus numbers either no. 80 (from Funchal going through Ribeira Brava, Ponta do Sol, Calheta, Jardim do Mar, Paul do Mar, Faja da Ovelha, Ponto da Pargo, Achadas da Cruz, Santa, Lamaceiros, Porto Moniz) or 139 ( from Funchal going through Câmara de Lobos, Ponte dos Frades, Estreito de Câmara de Lobos, Garachico, Cabo Girão, Quinta Grande, Campanario, Ribeira Brava, Serra de Água, Encumeada, Lameiros, São Vicente, Seixal, Ribeira da Janela, and Porto Moniz).
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Walking in Madeira – Levada do Alecrim

  • Start of Alecrim Levada walk
    Start of Alecrim Levada walk

The levada do Alecrim is an easy, out and back walk (approximately 7 kms in all) and suitable for those who have children. However the path is very uneven due to embedded rocks, so care needs to be taken.

The start to the walk is on the Paul do Serra Plateau, and is situated next to the car park for the Rabaçal, 25 Fontes walk. Fortunately, it is not as popular as the 25 Fontes walk so you will not encounter so many people on the walk. It is also quite shady due to the overhanging Urze, which is the predominant vegetation along with endemic species of broom, Genista tenera (Madeiran Broom) and Teline maderensis (Piorno). As you proceed along the levada you will see magnificent glimpses of the Rabaçal valley and mountains.

Unfortunately, for most of the walk, the levada is now empty as the water has been diverted nearer to the falls, so the wonderful staircase with gushing water alongside which I remember from years back, is not quite so spectacular. Still there are several waterfalls you will encounter before you get to the Madre (source) of the levada, which is absolutely breath-taking – a cascade of water, creating a natural pool below.